Olive Oil: Olive oil is a wonderful, rich oil that is food safe and creates a wonderful barrier to help seal in moisture (1). It is slow absorbing and helps to keep the skin hydrated. This is excellent in cases of sore, chapped or dried out skin that needs a protective barrier to heal. Olive oil is also known to be anti-inflammatory (2) which will help soothe irritated skin. Some reports also indicate it may help with wound healing (3).
Calendula Flower: Calendula is known to be one of the best herbs for local skin problems. It is a safe herb to use whenever there is inflammation either due to infection or physical damage (Hoffman). The anti-inflammatory activity of calendula extract is proven useful for injured skin and conditions such as psoriasis, contact dermatitis, rosacea and eczema (4).
Marshmallow Root: Marshmallow root is a beautiful demulcent (moistening and protective of mucous membranes) and emollient (softening and soothing) herb. This herb is very soothing for any mucous membrane irritations anywhere (Hoffman).
Chickweed: Known to many as a common herb that chickens like to eat, chickweed is a fantastic herb for skin. It is demulcent and emollient and offers wonderful healing to sensitive skin. Minor burns, lesions, acne, wounds, eczema, insect bites and psoriasis all may be soothed by chickweed. Used topically, it helps to soothe inflamed and irritated skin (Hoffman).
Cocoa Butter: Cocoa butter is full of fatty acids and the potent anti-oxidant, vitamin E which protects the skin and prevents further damage (5). It has the potential to help heal dried out and damaged skin and moisturize. Due to the polyphenols and flavonoids in its composition, cocoa butter helps reduce inflammation of the skin and prevents damage. The same polyphenols may boost skin elasticity and prevent aging (6). I use only organic, unrefined and food grade cocoa butter in my formulas.
Mango Butter: Vegetable oils and butters including mango butter have been shown to have very promising effects on skin and wound healing due to their fatty acid profiles. Their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidative activities promote cell proliferation, increase collagen synthesis, stimulate dermal reconstruction, and repair the skin's lipid barrier function (7). Mango butter contains vitamins A, C and E which are valuable for skin health and healing.
Beeswax: I use only unrefined, organic beeswax in my formulas. It creates a moisture barrier that helps to seal in the emollient goodness of the oils and butters. When used in combination with quality oils and fats, beeswax has been shown to help bolster wound healing (8). Beeswax has lubricating and softening activities and reduces trans-epidermal water loss from skin. Squalene, 10-hydroxy-trans-2-decenoic acid and flavonoids provide antiseptic properties to beeswax, and protect the skin against pathogenic microorganisms. Beeswax creates a protective barrier against many external factors by forming a film on the skin's surface and is a safe alternative to petroleum. β-carotene present in beeswax is a valuable source of vitamin A which delays collagen degradation, stimulates mitotic division in the epidermis, thus leads to sooner regeneration of the skin after damage (9).
Butter Pearls: C 10-18 triglycerides or butter pearls, are an up-cycled ingredient made from the discarded portions of olives when creating olive oil. They are completely biodegradable and provide emollient properties and a protective barrier. They contain palmitic and stearic fatty acids. C10-18 triglycerides contribute a rich, silky skin feel and boosts stability.
Tocopherol: I use unrefined organic tocopherol derived from wheat germ in my formulas. Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a potent anti-oxidant that reduces rancidity in a product and adds skin healing and wound healing benefits. Many studies document that vitamin E plays a central role as an efficient antioxidant that protects skin from the adverse effects of oxidative stress (10, 11).
1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28707186/
2. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11101-014-9350-8
3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4428202/
4. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/31
5. https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/6/8/3202
6. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00457.x
7. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ptr.6524
8. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0305417918301670
9. https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/25/3/556
10. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF00203614?crsi=662496633&cicada_org_src=healthwebmagazine.com&cicada_org_mdm=direct
11. https://karger.com/spp/article-abstract/15/5/282/383450/Antioxidants-and-the-Response-of-Skin-to-Oxidative?redirectedFrom=fulltext
Other references:
Hoffman, David. The Complete Herb Sourcebook
Hoffman, David. Medical Herbalism
