Study Hall: Tallow, Lard, and the Myth of the “Miracle Ingredient”

Posted by Emily Rubeo on

Tradition, Biology, and Honest Context

In recent years, beef tallow has become one of the most talked-about ingredients in natural skincare. Many people report great results. Others feel disappointed when it doesn’t work for them. And many are left confused by conflicting claims online.

So today, I want to slow this conversation down.

I’m not here to tell anyone what to use. I am certainly not here to dismiss traditional ingredients. I’m not promoting products.

I am just offering education, context, and clarity so you can make informed decisions for your own skin.

Good skincare isn’t about trends.
It’s about understanding how skin works.


A Brief History of Animal Fats in Skincare

Long before modern lotions and creams existed, people relied on rendered animal fats to protect their skin.

Both beef tallow and pork lard have been used for centuries in:

  • Ointments

  • Salves

  • Soap making

  • Cold-weather skin protection

  • Wound coverings

They were practical, accessible, and effective for basic barrier support.

This history matters and these fats are not “new.” They are traditional tools that deserve respect.  But tradition alone does not make something a miracle.


What Are Tallow and Lard, Really?

Beef Tallow

Beef tallow is rendered beef fat, typically from suet or internal fat. It is:

  • Firm at room temperature

  • High in saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids

  • Very stable

  • Strongly occlusive

On skin, this means it forms a dense, protective layer that slows moisture loss.

Lard

Lard is rendered pork fat. It is:

  • Softer and more flexible

  • Higher in monounsaturated fats

  • More spreadable

  • More similar in texture to human sebum

On skin, this often feels lighter and more “skin-like” than tallow.

Exact fatty acid composition varies depending on animal diet, breed, and rendering method.

Both are primarily lipid barriers that support moisture retention by reducing water loss. Neither adds water to the skin or functions as a humectant (something that attracts and holds water, helping increase the skin’s water content rather than simply sealing it in). Neither is inherently a treatment.


How These Fats Actually Work on Skin

Tallow and lard function mainly as occlusives.

An occlusive forms a lipid layer on the surface of the skin that:

  • Slows water evaporation

  • Reduces transepidermal water loss

  • Protects compromised barrier tissue

  • Shields against environmental stress

This is extremely valuable.

It is why many people feel immediate relief when they first use animal-fat balms.

But occlusion is not the same as healing.

It is protection.


Why Tallow Often Feels “Miraculous”

Some people experience dramatic improvement when they first use tallow. That experience is real.

Here’s why it happens.

Most modern skin is chronically under-protected.

Over-cleansing, harsh surfactants, exfoliation, indoor heating, dry air, and stress all damage the skin barrier. When someone finally applies a rich, stable occlusive, the skin responds quickly.

Moisture loss slows, irritation decreases and softness returns.

It feels like healing. In reality, the skin is finally being shielded and that is helpful.
It is just not the whole picture.


Common Claims You’ll See Online

Across blogs, brand sites, and DIY communities, you’ll often see similar statements repeated:

  • Tallow mimics human sebum

  • Tallow and lard are rich in vitamins A, D, E, and K

  • Tallow repairs skin at a cellular level

  • Lard is lightweight hydration

  • Tallow is deeply nourishing, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial

  • These fats work for all skin types

Some of these statements are partially true, some are oversimplified and some are marketing language.

Let’s look at them honestly.


Fatty Acid Profile and “Sebum Similarity”

You’ll often see claims online that beef tallow “closely mimics human sebum.” While it’s true that tallow contains some of the same fatty acids found in natural skin oils, this idea is frequently overstated.

Chemical similarity does not mean biological equivalence.

Human sebum is a complex mixture of lipids, wax esters, cholesterol, and squalene, not simply triglyceride fats.

Sharing some fatty acids does not mean an ingredient will behave like natural sebum in all contexts or automatically repair the barrier.

In reality, lard tends to be closer in feel and flexibility to natural skin oils than tallow due to its higher proportion of monounsaturated fats and softer structure. Pigs are also commonly used in dermatological research because their skin shares more similarities with human skin than many other animals.

Neither fat is identical to sebum, and neither replaces it. They simply offer different types of barrier support.


Vitamin Content, Especially in Pasture-Raised Lard

Both tallow and lard contain small amounts of fat-soluble vitamins, including A, D, E, and K.

Lard from pasture-raised pigs, especially animals raised outdoors with sun exposure and natural diets, can contain higher vitamin D levels than conventionally raised pork fat.

This is real.

Animal diet, sunlight, and living conditions do influence fat composition.

Our pigs are raised outside. That matters.

However, here is the important distinction:

Nutrient presence does not automatically equal nutrient delivery.

Fat-soluble vitamins are not inherently bioavailable when applied topically without delivery systems designed to support penetration.

There is currently no strong clinical evidence showing that these vitamins, when applied topically in animal fats, penetrate the skin in amounts that create measurable therapeutic effects.

These nutrients matter nutritionally when eaten.
Their topical activity remains largely unproven.

So it is fair to say these fats contain nutrients.
It is not accurate to present them as vitamin-delivery systems.


Inflammation, Eczema, and “Repair”

Many people report that tallow helps their eczema or irritation.

Some genuinely feel better.
Others feel worse.

Both experiences are valid.

Eczema is inflammatory, immune-linked, and microbiome-influenced. It is not simply dry skin.

Occlusives can reduce dryness and itching by protecting the barrier.

But they do not treat inflammation, immune dysregulation, or microbial imbalance.

For some people, barrier support is enough to feel relief.

For others, trapping heat, allergens, or irritation under heavy fats can worsen symptoms.

This is why simple tallow works beautifully for some and poorly for others.

It is not universal medicine.


Comedogenicity and Sensitivity

Heavy fats are not automatically gentle for everyone.

Some people, especially those with oily or acne-prone skin, may experience congestion when using highly occlusive products.

Others tolerate them well.

There are no large clinical trials defining exactly who will or won’t tolerate animal fats.

Individual response matters.


Tallow vs. Lard: A Practical Comparison

Feature Beef Tallow Lard
Texture Firm, dense Soft, flexible
Absorption Slow Faster
Skin feel Heavy, protective More skin-like
Stability Very high Moderate-high
Best suited for Severe dryness, harsh exposure Often better tolerated for daily use or sensitive skin
Main limitation Can feel heavy Less structural firmness

Both are tools.
Neither is complete on its own.


Why Formulation Matters

Many popular tallow balms contain:

  • Tallow

  • A carrier oil, typically jojoba oil

  • Essential oils

This is fat plus fat plus scent.

These products function as occlusive moisturizers.

They are not designed to:

  • Modulate inflammation

  • Support tissue repair

  • Balance the microbiome

  • Deliver botanical constituents

  • Adapt to different skin states

They aren’t meant to, and that’s okay. But they shouldn’t be framed as cures.

Thoughtful formulation considers:

  • Skin state, not just skin type
    Whether skin is dry, dehydrated, inflamed, compromised, or reactive changes what it needs. Static formulas applied to dynamic tissue rarely work long-term.
  • Water balance and hydration support
    How water is introduced, retained, and supported matters. Occlusion alone protects moisture but does not add hydration.
  • Lipid diversity and balance
    Skin benefits from a range of lipid types, not a single dominant fat. Different lipids contribute differently to flexibility, barrier resilience, and comfort.
  • Barrier function without suffocation
    Effective formulations protect the barrier while still allowing the skin to function, adapt, and regulate itself.
  • Delivery context, not penetration promises
    Some ingredients require appropriate formulation to be bio-available or effective. How an ingredient is delivered often matters more than its presence alone.
  • Ingredient compatibility and synergy
    Ingredients do not act in isolation. Thoughtful formulation considers how components support, buffer, or counterbalance one another.
  • Inflammation and irritation risk
    Not all skin needs stimulation. Calming, buffering, and restraint are often more supportive than aggressive activity.
  • Microbiome awareness
    Skin health is influenced by microbial balance. Formulation choices can either support or disrupt that balance.
  • Stability over time
    An unstable product may feel wonderful initially but change in texture, efficacy, or safety over weeks or months.
  • Preservation and safety
    Natural ingredients are not self-preserving. Proper preservation protects both the product and the skin using it.
  • Adaptability across environments and seasons
    Skin needs change with climate, stress, hormones, and routine. Good formulation anticipates variability.

That is where true skincare support happens.

Water Balance and Skin State

Skin can be dry, dehydrated, or both.

Dry skin lacks oil.
Dehydrated skin lacks water.

Occlusives like tallow and lard are excellent for dry skin because they reduce water loss. But they do not add water to the skin.

When dehydrated skin is sealed under heavy occlusion without sufficient water present, the underlying dehydration remains. The surface may feel soft temporarily, but tightness, flaking, or irritation can persist or worsen over time.

Thoughtful formulation accounts for skin state, not just ingredient quality. It considers how water is introduced, retained, and supported alongside lipid protection.

Occlusives on Dehydrated Skin

Using pure tallow or other heavy occlusives on dehydrated skin is not inherently harmful, but it can be counterproductive if hydration is not addressed.

Occlusives seal in the condition of the skin at the time of application. If the skin is low in water, that state can be locked in.

This is why some people do better applying animal-fat balms to slightly damp skin or layering them over hydration-supporting ingredients. It is also why others find that pure fats stop working for them over time.

This is not a failure of the ingredient.
It is a mismatch between skin needs and formulation.


How I Work With Lard in Our Products

I use pastured lard intentionally.

Not as a hero ingredient, a marketing hook or a miracle claim.

I use it as one part of a balanced system.

It provides:

  • Barrier support

  • Comfort

  • Skin compatibility

  • Traditional grounding

Then I pair it with:

  • Hydration-supporting humectants

  • Herbal-infused oils

  • Complementary plant butters and lipids

  • Skin-compatible emollients and actives

  • Balanced emulsions when appropriate

  • Supportive formulation structure

  • Thoughtful preservation and antioxidants

Each ingredient has a role. No single ingredient carries the formula.

That is formulation.


The Myth of the Miracle Ingredient

We don’t have miracle foods.  We don’t have miracle medicines.  We don’t have miracle supplements.  We don’t have miracle skincare ingredients.

Human biology is complex.

Skin health is influenced by:

  • Genetics

  • Hormones

  • Diet

  • Environment

  • Microbiome

  • Stress

  • Routine

  • Formulation

No substance works for everyone.

When something feels miraculous, it usually means a missing piece was finally restored.

Not that everything was fixed.


My Goal With Education

My goal is not to tell you what to buy.

It is to help you understand:

  • What ingredients actually do

  • Why they feel helpful

  • Where their limits are

  • How to choose wisely

I want you to trust your observations. I want you to understand marketing language. I want you to feel empowered.

Not dependent on trends.


Final Thoughts

Beef tallow and lard are traditional, valuable ingredients.

They deserve respect.
They deserve honesty.

They are excellent tools.
They are not miracles.

Thoughtful skincare is built on understanding, balance, and integrity.

That is what we will keep doing here.

← Older Post

Leave a comment

Blog

RSS
Cosmetics Know the facts Plant Medicine Skin health What's the truth

Beyond “Natural”: Choosing Skincare with Discernment

Emily Rubeo By Emily Rubeo

What Does Living More Naturally Really Mean? (Updated) This was originally written five years ago. Re-reading it these many years later, I see how much...

Read more
Anatomy Cosmetics Detox Know the facts Myth Busting Physiology Skin health What's the truth

Cosmetics and Skincare Myth Busting: The truth about skin detox

Emily Rubeo By Emily Rubeo

Healthy skin is not something to battle into submission.It is something to understand, support, and work with. Yet so much of modern skincare is built...

Read more